What are cosmetic actives? Cosmetic actives are ingredients that work physiologically within the skin or aid in protecting the skin from damage. Cosmetic actives are used to benefit the skin in various ways, depending on the active. They are used to lighten, tighten, and firm, reduce wrinkles, protect and rejuvenate the skin.
There are a wide range of cosmetic actives, each having their own special function and purpose within a fomulation. We have listed below the actives that we currently work with, with a brief discription of their purpose, benefits and results.
As we age, skin loses its elasticity and muscles weaken which can cause loose skin to accumulate around the eyes, forming folds in the eyelids. Fat, which cushions the eyes in their sockets moves forward out of the ocular cavities and accumulates in bulging bags around the eyelids.
The other major reason for puffy eyes is water accumulation, known as edema, which can be caused by poor lymphatic circulation and increased capillary permeability.
Eyeseryl® is a tetrapeptide with anti-edema properties with proven efficacy in reducing puffy eyebags in as little as 15 days.
Homeostatine® from Provital is an active complex of two natural botanical ingredients: the active, a marine pentasaccharide (MPS) obtained from a marine seaweed, Enteromorpha compressa, and a polysaccharide fraction (galactomannans), extracted from the Andean tara tree, Caesalpinia spinosa, that makes a novel 3D hydrocolloidal matrix.
Through an innovative process, Homeostatine® prevents and reduces wrinkles by recovering and maintaining homeostasis in the dermal extra-cellular matrix. It increases the production of dermal collagen and other ECM components in fibroblasts. It inhibits the synthesis of Metalloproteinases (MMP) as well as the synthesis of pro-inflammatory mediators. Homeostatine® operates on two levels of combined action. MPS, the small molecules, penetrate the epidermis and act on the fibroblasts' metabolism; and Galactomannan, the high molecular weight molecules remain on the horny layer, acting as a gradual MPS release system. The result is less wrinkled, more elastic and firmer skin.
Wrinkle Defense Complex
An anti-aging compound containing a blend of 55% Argireline® and 45% Matrixyl™ 3000. Argireline® is a hexapeptide composed of amino acids. It works through a unique mechanism which relaxes facial tension leading to a reduction in superficial facial lines and wrinkles with regular use. Matrixyl™ 3000 contains two matrikines, Pal-GHK and Pal-GQPR. Acting as messengers of cutaneous restructuration and repair, these two peptides work synergistically to restore and maintain the skin's youthful appearance. Our combined formulation offers the potential for short and long term improvement in the appearance of wrinkles.
An anti-aging product from Sederma. "Matrikine" is the term proposed for fragmented matrix peptides able to regulate cell activity. Matrixyl™ 3000 contains two matrikines, Pal-GHK and Pal-GQPR. Acting as messengers of cutaneous restructuration and repair, these two peptides work synergistically to restore and maintain the skin's youthful appearance.
Remarkable advances in anti-aging applications for skin resilience, including reductions in fine lines and improvement in skin tone, are being seen with the addition of Metabiotics™ Resveratrol to cosmetic formulations. Produced through fermentation of the small molecule, resveratrol, with the microorganism, Pichia pastoris, this innovative biotechnological ingredient is designed for use in anti-aging skin creams and related products.
Pichia pastoris, the microorganism used in the production of Metabiotics™ Resveratrol, was chosen chiefly due to its long history of use in the pharmaceutical industry where it is considered GRAS or generally recognized as safe by the FDA. Only recently has it been explored for its use in personal care applications. Pichia pastoris, like others of the Saccharomycetase genus to which it belongs, has the distinctive ability to express bio-actives that are capable of unique benefits, without application of human cell lines. Uniquely, it also has an affinity for lipid based compounds, therefore acting as a model organism for biofermentation of oil soluble or insoluble actives like resveratrol, which has presented formulating challenges due to its water solubility and stability limitations.
Collagen IV and anti-inflammatory synthesis activity is afforded through the complete metabolization of the resveratrol in the biofermentation process, targeting micro-inflammation and maintaining the structural integrity of skin cells through the dermal epidermal junction (DEJ). An ideal active to incorporate in cosmetic formulations designed to ameliorate the visible signs of aging, Metabiotics™ Resveratrol promotes firming and helps rebuild DEJ structural integrity.
In vitro studies were performed to determine the inhibitory benefits of Metabiotics™ Resveratrol on a full thickness tissue model to reduce expression of the anti-inflammatory enzyme cyclooxygenase 1 [COX1] along with its ability to promote the synthesis of Collagen IVA on the same tissue model. The results, in both cases, confirm with statistical significance that either a 1% or 2% treatment of Metabiotics™ Resveratrol reduces the levels of the COX1 enzyme and increases the amount of COLL IVA synthesis. In vivo, an anti-aging study has confirmed a reduction in fine lines and wrinkles following a 28-day application, as well as firming and lifting of the skin to reduce notable sagging that was present prior to treatment.
Key attributes include:
Targets Expression Wrinkles
Enhanced Skin Tone
Skin Firming and Smoothing
Promoting Extra Cellular Matrix
A highly purified Watermelon extract with the ability to protect the DNA in skin cells from damage caused by UV-light induced free radicals.
Pepha®-Protect is a skin protective active containing naturally occurring vitamins, carbohydrates and amino acids such as Citrulline. Under extreme conditions Watermelon plants develop their own defense system by producing Compatible Solutes. These are water soluble molecules, for example amino acids, which penetrate easily into the skin. Compatible Solutes also can naturally occur in the human body. Pepha®-Protect's synergistic composition is very strong in protecting the DNA of the skinâ€™s fibroblasts and keratinocytes. Pepha®-Protect is a highly concentrated aqueous solution manufactured according to GMP standards.
The skin is increasingly exposed to free radicals. This can be partly explained by the decrease of the protective ozone layer and increased pollution due to our modern lifestyle. As a consequence, damage to the DNA, which can be irreversible, causes the appearance of mutations. The natural regeneration of the cells is reduced due to stress, aging and increasing amount levels of free radicals. Pepha®-Protect increases the natural defense system of the skin due to the synergistic acting effect of the vitamins, carbohydrates and Citrulline.
Compatible Solutes are able to protect important cell structures such as the DNA from destruction. Such compounds occur in organisms which survive under extreme conditions such as high salt concentration, heat or drought. Watermelon (Citrullus Lanatus) grows in the Kalahari Desert and exhibits high drought tolerances. Exposed to such stress the Melon produces its own defense system which Pentapharm then uses for Pepha®-Protect. In the Kalahari Desert, Watermelon is still used as a very important water source. The melon used for Pepha®-Protect is a cultivated plant growing under the same conditions as the wild one. Consequently Pentapharm Ltd's highly purified Watermelon extract nourishes the skin by its natural water binding habit. Pepha®-Protect is a preventative ingredient of choice to protect the skin against the breakdown of the DNA caused by UV-light and pollution
Pepha®-Tight is a highly purified biotechnologically produced extract from the microalgae Nannochloropsis oculata combined with a well balanced fraction of polysaccharides. It functions as a skin tightener which provides immediate tightening to the skin. It has been shown to protect human fibroblasts from oxidative stress, simultaneously increasing the formation of collagen-l thereby promoting a long term tightening effect through the strengthening of the skin's connective tissue
For those who are troubled by dark circles and puffiness around the eyes Pentapharm has launched REGU®-AGE. This new anti-ageing complex has been developed specifically to address these conditions by improving microcirculation, protecting the integrity of the collagen and elastin bundle and reducing the effects that free radicals have upon the skin. In-vivo tests have confirmed visible results after only 4 weeks.
The skin around the eyes is normally very thin, containing only delicate subcutaneous fatty tissue. As we age it becomes even thinner. In addition to individual genetic disposition, external influences such as UV radiation play a significant part in the appearance of dark circles and eye puffiness. Today, they are viewed to be the result of blood retention in upper layers of the skin caused by poor hemodynamic properties and limited blood flow. If not treated properly, this can lead to a build up of venous back pressure on the fine skin capillaries, resulting in increased damage on an already weakened connective tissue. An insufficient supply of essential oxygen, inflammation processes followed by higher levels of ROS and also increased activity of proteolytic enzymes due to UV exposure contribute to the degeneration of the connective tissue resulting in wrinkles and slackness.
Clinical tests have shown REGU®-AGE to be a proven fast and effective tool to
reduce dark circles and puffiness around the eyes
strengthen the connective tissue
reduce inflammation and prevent UV damage
Clinically proven to improve the various manifestations associated with skin aging in mature skin, Renovage™ visibly reduces the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, sun spots, large pores and skin redness, increases the skin's natural moisture content and barrier function, and enhances skin's overall firmness, tone and elasticity, while restoring the skin's overall texture.
Renovage™ provides anti-ageing and a protective effect against stress, by telomere stabilization and DNA maintenance (cell division). If offers improvement of tissue quality by optimal cell interactions (cell communication) and assists with rebalance of cell functions (metabolism). Be delaying senescence, Renovage™ can extend cell lifespan by one third.
Renovage™ fights against all signs of aging
ineffective barrier function
SeasFlash is a new generation tightening agent. The patented molecular active ingredient combination contains sesame to instantly and visible smooth the skin, as well as tighten it. Sesaflash also incorporates an effective long lasting hydrating effect.
Backed by in vivo studies substantiating the tightening action, wrinkle releasing effect, sensorial experience and moisturization level, SesaFlash can be used in all types of applications where smoothing, tightening, firming, anti-aging or moisturizing properties are desired. It is an ideal complement to long-term, anti-aging active ingredients such as Matrixyl 3000, Argireline, SNAP-8 and others.
SNAP-8 Solution – Paraben Free
The anti wrinkle octapeptide SNAP-8 is an elongation of the famous hexapeptide Argireline®. SNAP-8 reduces the depth of wrinkles on the face caused by the contraction of muscles of facial expression, especially in the forehead and around the eyes.SNAP-8 is a mimic of the N-terminal end of SNAP-25 which competes with SNAP-25 for a position in the SNARE complex, thereby modulating its formation. If the SNARE complex is slightly destabilized, the vesicle can not release neurotransmitters efficiently and therefore muscle contraction is attenuated, preventing the formation of lines and wrinkles. Like Argireline, inhibits SNARE complex formation and catecholamine release, resulting in the reduction of the degree of existing facial wrinkles and demonstrated effectiveness against their development with regular use. In clinical studies, the severity of wrinkles around the eyes decreased up to 63.13%. Both in vivo and in vitro efficacy testing suggests that SNAP-8 is approximately 30% more active than its parent peptide Argireline. As supplied by the manufacturer, this product contains 0.05% SNAP-8 powder aka Acetyl Octapeptide-3.
SNAP-8 is a safer, cheaper, and milder alternative to Botulinum Toxin, topically targeting the same wrinkle-formation mechanism in a very different way. SNAP-8 can be incorporated in cosmetic formulations such as emulsions, gels, and serums where attenuation of the deep lines or wrinkles in the forehead or around the eye are is desired
Vitamin B3, Niacinamide
Niacinamide is the active form of Vitamin B3. A safe, nonirritating cosmeceutical ingredient which research shows can offer a number of benefits in improving the appearance of aged and photodamaged skin. Studies have shown topical niacinamide to be effective in improving skin texture and the appearance of hyperpigmented spots, with improvement in overall blotchiness and the reduction of the severity of fine lines. It has been shown to stimulate collagen synthesis and production of ceramide, a lipid compound that contributes to the functional and structural integrity of the skin barrier. Theoretically, by improving barrier integrity, niacinamide may help the skin become more resistant to external irritants.
Q-MAX™ Coenzyme Q10. Coenzyme Q10 is a fat-soluble vitamin-like substance present in every cell of the human body. It serves as a coenzyme vital to production of energy within cells. It is also a very powerful antioxidant or free radical scavenger. Synthesized by the human body, it starts out at low levels when we are very young, reaches its peak in our young adulthood and shows a gradual decline after the age of 20, even as the body's demand for it grows. Coenzyme Q10 and Vitamin E are the only oil-soluble antioxidants naturally present in the epidermis but readily depleted by UV-radiation. Both actives protect the skin from the damaging effects of UV light. Topically applied, Q-Max™ can penetrate the cell layers of the skin and may attenuate the depth of wrinkles due to photo aging, as well as epithelial cell turnover. Kerotinocyte cells make up the majority of human skin cells and CoQ10 has been shown to protect these skin cells from oxidative DNA damage induced by ultraviolet light. CoQ10 supports the body's natural defense mechanism against the damaging effects of free radicals, particularly the lipid per oxidation in skin.
More than just Coenzyme Q10, Q-MAX™ combines Vitamin E (tocopheryl acetate) and Coenzyme Q10 (ubiquinone), synergistic antioxidants
DL-Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) helps improve the appearance of skin tone and texture.
Alpha Tocopheryl Acetate or Vitamin E Acetate is the stable form of Vitamin E . Supported by numerous studies over the past few years, Vitamin E Acetate has been shown to increase the enzyme activity in the skin, prevent free radical induced skin damage, increase epithelisation of surface wounds and increase moisturisation.
Allantoin is used for its soothing and anti-irritating properties. Allantoin stimulates healthy, normal tissue formation
Fucoidan- assists in collagen synthesis, inhibits the replication of many viruses, including herpes, human cytomegalovirus, HIV-1 and others.
Hesperidan- brings life back to dull colored lips as well as reducing the effects of sun spots
Hilurlip™ redefines, plumps and minimizes fine vertical lines of the lips. Small particles of Sodium Hyaluronate are processed to enhance penetration and efficacy, producing a long-term volume boosting effect on the lips and an anti-aging action on the thin tissue. It also acts against the effects of outside pollution.
Natural Active Peptides, a mix of small size (below 5,000 MW) peptides derived from marine collagen. They will help with moisturizing and supply your skin with amino acids that will be used in collagen synthesis.